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LaFong
Training Wheels
Training Wheels



Joined: Apr 24, 2009
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:33 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I'm in the process of configuring a new bike, and I'm appealing to yooz guys to share any insights you might have with one or both of these drivetrains.
 
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DeepVI
Centurion
Centurion



Joined: Sep 30, 2009
Posts: 2453
Location: Tucson's prodigal child

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:33 am Reply with quote Back to top

Don't forget about 1x10, with any one of these nifty rings and a 40/42T cassette adapters(CA).

RF ring.
http://www.raceface.com/components/rings/rings/single-ring-narrow-wide/

Wolftooth ring/CA
http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/

OneUp CA
http://www.oneupcomponents.com/

I know there's a few people on here that have made the switch. I'm currently running RF and WT 34/36T chainrings on my HT and FS. Matched with a clutch RD, it's been brilliant, nary a hint of a dropped chain. If I moved back west, I'd jump on one of the CA's in a heartbeat. I'm never buying a FD again. A set of XT cranks are a dime a dozen. I found mine for under $200. You can get an entire 1x10 drivetrain for around $500-600. For my new build I had to buy a Saint RD shifter, since Shimano seems to only sell shifters in pairs.

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nathan
Centurion
Centurion



Joined: Sep 04, 2008
Posts: 1344
Location: NE Tucson

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 4:57 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I suppose you wouldn't need new cranks with this setup either, I could just throw a 32 tooth on my current 2x9 speed setup, and then all you need is a shifter, cassette, 40 tooth ring for the back, and chain...... Does the 1x10 front ring sit dead center on the cassette as far as chainline goes?

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thudd
Jr. Writer
Jr. Writer



Joined: Nov 07, 2013
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:52 pm Reply with quote Back to top

9spd and 10spd have different spacing. You'd need a 10spd cassette and shifter. Pull the 15t cog out and put the 40t on. An SLX cassette won't work because it doesn't come apart
 
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wowaz
Advanced Writer
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Joined: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 298

PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:38 pm Reply with quote Back to top

ME runs 2x10, really likes it.

I run 1x10 with an Endless Bikes 32t chainring and an 11-36 cassette with a WolfTooth 42t SRAM/Shimano specific cog added (have it on two bikes). It works for me. I'm not fast, nor looking to win races, just have a climbing gear. It is NOT like having a granny. Both have a clutch derailleur, neither has any chain retention system. I don't drop any chains and I've tried.

ME's set-up definitely has a greater range.

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cruzn29er
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Joined: Oct 08, 2008
Posts: 315
Location: kinney&ajo

PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:38 am Reply with quote Back to top

I have run a 1*9 with xo components and a stylo ss crank for 4 years and rarely drop a chain. for most of the riding I do the only complain is nothing. on some climbs I need to get off the saddle. since I road ss for many years it does not bother me.
 
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Duracel
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Joined: Dec 13, 2011
Posts: 285
Location: Durango

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:27 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I ran a 2x10 XO setup 24/38 with an 11-36 on my Enduro for a long time. If you pony up for the xx rear cassette you shave off the weight you would otherwise gain with XX1/XO1, as long as you have a set of nice, light cranks already and some x9/xo shifters.

I switched to 1x10 to test it out a few months back. I am currently on 11-42 with one-up ring on an x7/x9 level cassette. The extra 200g on the rear axle IS noticeable. My rear used to be much more balanced with the front, and it took some time to regain the POP I had with the 1/2 lb lighter cassette.

The front is a Wolftooth 34t ring. I NOTICE on long climbs that I have no granny, but it made me stronger. It took three painful weeks of hammering to adjust. The simplicity of the system is worth it to me.

I'm sure I would never drop a chain, but I installed a CSIXX top/bottom guide with integrated bash. It's carbon and kevlar, weighs 150g, and it's FOOLPROOF. My chain simply cannot move.

I put the 32t wolftooth on today for an upcoming epic Oregon trip, as we will be doing lots of climbing. In general, my legs smoke faster than before with the 34, but the overall ride is simpler, quieter, less cluttered, and more deliberate. You want to go fast? click-click-click. You need to climb steeps, click-click-click. No left hand involvement, just for your dropper post. It makes the jumps DOUBLE from gear to gear, and your legs don't quite know what to do with the shifts at first, but after a few weeks you won't want it any other way.

As for top-end, you lose some. Simple. Do you go slower? Only on the pavement. I routinely complete DH runs in my fastest two gears, but if I click back 3 gears I go just as fast. It's different. You either pump more, brake less... Or you pedal more and hit the brakes more. Either way you go plenty fast. If you like the feedback on the feet, the tall gear is rad for descents. If you don't, shove it in the middle somewhere and just pump.

I notice on the roads at the end of the ride. I can't keep up with my buds on their tallboys with 2x gearing. So what.

I used every gear in my range with the 24/38 setup, and still cannot fault it really. If you have strong legs and you don't mind the occasional grunt, go 1x. If you would rather spin fast on climbs to save the muscles for later, keep the 2x. It's cheaper to go that route these days anyways.

The only way to get the full range of your 24/38 twin setup AND have a single front ring WITH a granny that doesn't hurt is to use xx1 or xo1 with a 30 or 32t front ring. The 10t at the bottom of the cassette gives you 10% more top end speed, so you can shave off 10% of, say, my 34t ring and that puts you at a 30t. You get MOST of the range at the bottom you had before, and only lose a hair up top.

I have the ratios if you want to see the numbers, but they aren't necessary for most. ONE-UP is truly 90% of the benefit for 10% of the cost. You just have to pick, do you want the granny OR the top end? Can't have both. That'll cost ya.

I weighed everything out. A pair of XO shifters and XO derailleurs, with XO carbon cranks, XO twin rings (integrated bash) and an XX cassette puts you in the weight range of XX1 ---- but you have a wider gear range for everything.

Of course that XX cassette runs about $400, and everything else is pricey too. You can run x9 and have about the same weight, but the rear cassette is the KEY.

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Duracel
Advanced Writer
Advanced Writer



Joined: Dec 13, 2011
Posts: 285
Location: Durango

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:42 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I have a 2x9 kit in a bag. Probably needs a derailleur tweak (or a new one). You would need cranks.

It's from Suvlako's 2010 carbon. I would part with it for cheap. Its on Pinkbike and Craigslist.

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Evil_Patrick
Centurion
Centurion



Joined: Sep 26, 2008
Posts: 1730
Location: Trapped in a humanoid carcass

PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:25 am Reply with quote Back to top

I'm still running a 3 by 9. Till that crap wears out, I'll just have to imagine how much better it would be w/ one dem dare new fangled transmissions, hee yuh!

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Duracel
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Joined: Dec 13, 2011
Posts: 285
Location: Durango

PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 12:21 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Update - XX1 on my new bike is just ridiculous.

It's smoooooooooooth, I have all of the right gears, and without a guide my chain has not budged.

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nathan
Centurion
Centurion



Joined: Sep 04, 2008
Posts: 1344
Location: NE Tucson

PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 1:18 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I just spent $120 purchasing a new xt cassette, chain and two front chain rings for my 2 x 9 set up. It is silky smooth also! New drivetrain stuff always feels so nice for the first dozen rides untill you stop noticing it. Is 1x11 700$ better? When I buy a totally new bike I am sure it will have 1x10 or xx something. But till then, 2x9 speed makes a lot of sense.
Happy to know that folks like their new toys though!

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suvlako
Centurion
Centurion



Joined: Dec 26, 2008
Posts: 3082
Location: all up in yo grill

PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 9:20 pm Reply with quote Back to top

How much do you value clutter and extra weight. Went from a 13 with 2x10 to a 14 Enduro with X11 and shaved almost 2 pounds off the bike and had less to tinker with. I will say you may need to use the gear calculator and change up your chain ring to the right amt of teeth. If you arw going up to 27.5 or 29, you have to move down to a mimimum of 30 tooth or even a 28(for 29er wheel). Your wheels are gears too. Had to gear mine down to a 30 tooth chainring to get the same gear ratio as my old 24(frt) and 36(rear). In fact even with a 30 tooth it still wasn't exacly the same. Not a bad investment but certainly not a NEED TO HAVE.

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Duracel
Advanced Writer
Advanced Writer



Joined: Dec 13, 2011
Posts: 285
Location: Durango

PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 9:26 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hey - whatever puts you on a bike with a grin is the correct solution. I opted for 1x10 until I upgraded the whole bike. Then it just made sense to go all in.

ART - I'm on 27.5 with a 32t and it's GOLDEN, even for 4,500 climbing days. It took 2-3 weeks to adjust the legs to the new ratios (bc they were completely foreign and really felt terrible) but now it's awesome.

We climb walls for hours and it's great. Very Happy It did take some practice tho, and I rarely top out on the 10t. It's nice to have, but I don't "need" it often.

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wowaz
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Joined: Aug 27, 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:52 am Reply with quote Back to top

This week I started riding 1x11 on a different bike. After 90+miles it is starting to feel quite natural.

All SRAM XX1, 30x10-42 I've been running a 1x setup for almost four years. I like less clutter on the bar, as my controls are all on one side. When changing from the old, 32x11-42 to the new, I referenced http://www.bikecalc.com to compare ratios. Going with a 30t in the front did ease the climbing.

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thudd
Jr. Writer
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Joined: Nov 07, 2013
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:18 am Reply with quote Back to top

wowaz wrote:
I referenced http://www.bikecalc.com to compare ratios. Going with a 30t in the front did ease the climbing.


And the 30/10 gives you a better top gear than 32/11
 
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